knead, [NEED] A technique used to mix and work a dough in order to form it into a cohesive, pliable mass. During kneading, the network of gluten strands stretches and expands, thereby enabling a dough to hold in the gas bubbles formed by a leavener (which allows it to rise). Kneading is accomplished either manually or by machine - usually a large mixer equipped with a dough hook (some machines have two dough hooks) or a food processor with a plastic blade. By hand, kneading is done with a pressing-folding-turning action performed by pressing down into the dough with the heels of both hands, then pushing away from the body. The dough is folded in half and given a quarter turn, and the process is repeated. Depending on the dough, the manual kneading time can range anywhere from 5 to 15 minutes (or more). Well-kneaded dough is smooth and elastic.

I recently read the novel The Baker’s Apprentice. Until then, I’d never really had the desire to bake bread. In fact, friends who know me well, know that this is way too much work for me. I need to get dinner on the table, but quick! Anyway, something about this book made me want to bake my own bread, to knead bread. I tried a few recipes, with mixed results.

Finally, I focused on breads that resembled the rosemary rolls at Annarosa Bakery, the treat that Grace and I love to pick up for 50¢ apiece. These rosemary rolls are so good. Once, in fact, when I had picked them up for a party my sisters and aunt and I were throwing for my mother’s 70th birthday, I had to pull over to the side of the road and move the bag of rolls to the back of the car, because I just kept reaching in and eating roll after roll after roll (which explains my roll after roll after roll).

The recipe that resulted is a rustic, hand-shaped loaf that has kalamata olives, rosemary, olive oil, and kosher salt. When warm out of the oven, it needs no butter, or anything else. It is dangerously simple to eat the entire loaf on one’s own, so I divided it into two loaves. That way, you can eat one, and still have one for dinner, or gifting, or whatever your original purpose for baking the bread was.

Rustic black olive and rosemary bread
adapted from Mediterranean black olive bread from allrecipes.com

3 c bread flour
1 T active dry yeast
2 T sugar
1 T kosher salt (additional may be added in when kneading)
½ c kalamata olives, chopped
1 T fresh rosemary, chopped (additional may be added in when kneading)
3 T olive oil
1¼ c warm water (about 110°)
1 T cornmeal

In a large bowl, mix together flour, yeast, sugar, salt, olives, rosemary, olives, oil, and water.

Turn out dough onto a floured board. Knead until smooth and elastic, about 5 or 10 minutes (with an additional teaspoon or so of chopped rosemary and kosher salt, if desired). Set dough aside in an oiled bowl, cover with a damp towel, and let rise for about 45 minutes, until doubled in size.

Punch down and knead well again for about 5 or 10 minutes (with an additional teaspoon or so of chopped rosemary and kosher salt, if desired). Place in an oiled bowl, covered with a damp towel, and allow to ruse for another 30 minutes, until doubled in size.

Line a baking sheet with parchment dusted with cornmeal and kosher salt. Divide dough into two loaves. Rub each with a little olive oil, and sprinkle with a little more chopped rosemary and salt, if desired. Let rise about 25 minutes, until doubled in size. Meanwhile, place a pan of water on the bottom shelf of the oven, and preheat to 500°. Once loaves have doubled in size, bake for 15 minutes. Reduce heat to 375° and bake for 20 minutes longer.

Try not to eat both loaves in one sitting.